Registered: Dec 1999
Location:
Posts: 5

Just in case you're wondering.......

Yes you can safely disassemble and reassemble your beloved Visor. If you're of at least moderate mechanical ability (and who else would read this topic anyway?) it will, in all probability, function just as well when you've finished as it did when you began.

Hotsync first.

Remove the batteries, snap-on cover and springboard dummy-module. The dummy springboard makes a great place to park the screws you are about to remove.

Lay the unit face down on a clean, padded surface (cardboard or foam-core board are excellent).

Remove the four tiny screws that hold the case together, two that were revealed when you removed the springboard module and the other two that are at the bottoms of those holes on either side of the battery compartment. (If you've wisely invested in the deluxe replacement styli that Handspring sells, you can use the screwdriver that is inside of the "handle" end, otherwise, and preferably, use a jeweler's #0 Phillips head screwdriver). Place the screws in a safe place, like inside of the springboard dummy-module.

Use your fingernail to gently open the seam where the two case halves meet, you have to undo four molded-in "snap" closures that are on each side of the case-halves.

Once all eight of these "snap" closures are separated, you can rotate the upper case-half 180 degrees away from yourself (holding the unit face up, buttons towards yourself). There is a ribbon of about 10 conductors that joins the top case with the digitizer screen in it to the bottom case that retains the "mother board" and the button board.

The seven buttons all reside on one board along with the microphone, battery contacts and hotsync contacts as well. This board can be easily removed by gently prying up on the right hand side first, which will detach the button boards' male plug from the mother boards' socket. Real easy. Then you have to coax the mic out of it's little enclosure which is easily done also, it is simply a press-fit. The whole button board can then be lifted clear of the bottom case.

You'll notice at this point that the ribbon connector from the screen to the motherboard terminates on the motherboard at a nifty little piece of plastic hardware that is very similar in concept to a ZIF socket. (Zero Insertion Force). Carefully pry up one of the grey "ear"-type ends that protrude from both ends of the socket. The other end will come up with it. Once it's popped up, the clamping pressure on the terminus of the ribbon connector is released and you can easily pull the ribbon free of the socket.

The mother board is fully exposed now, and it is very easily removed after removing the two screws (identical to the case screws you took out earlier). These screws are sorta hidden in two holes molded into the motherboard itself. Once they're out, the board lifts out no problem.

Anyone that read this far will undoubtedly be able to reverse the above to reassemble. There are no seals inside that will reveal to anyone that you have opened the unit.

In pre-emptive answer to your questions:

Yes, I have.

Yes, it does.

Because I could.


[This message has been edited by TimD (edited 12-27-1999).]

Registered: Nov 1999
Location: Gainesville, FL USA
Posts: 112

Excellent post! Thanks!

Registered: Nov 1999
Location: venice, ca. USA
Posts: 32

TimD:

Thank you, and bless you for daring the hair-raising to benefit the whole timid lot of us. This enabled me to remove enough pressure between the bezel and screen to insert a fine scratch shield of transparent mylar, thus saving the exorbitant $25.00 that ConceptKitchen is getting for the same stuff with glue on the back.

f


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factoid
venice, ca
http://www.well.com/~factoid/

Registered: Nov 1999
Location: Boston, MA, USA
Posts: 90

Just to let you all know that TimD isn't the only one to have sucessfully disassembled and reassembled his Visor....
I _had_ to after spilling beer in my three day old Visor in an airport bar (trying to be too cool reading AvantGo'd web pages).
I mopped up but all the buttons went sticky as it dried. I used the screwdriver in the metal replacement stylus to take it apart and Windex to clean things up inside. As I'd already bought WriteRights, I didn't bother to put anything in front of the screen as I put it back together, but I think I will in the future as the gap around the edge of the WriteRight is starting to annoy me.
The ZIF socket for the screen ribbon cable is a nice touch - making it possible to consider doing this on a regular(ish) basis.
The only point of caution I would raise is when you unclip the screen assembly from the front half of the casing, it sits on some very small plastic pegs which are part of the casing. Be sure not to break these off or you'll have a lopsided screen for ever more..!
I just thought of something else... Someone on one of the other discussion boards was saying how they had read that cell phones have foam around the screens to protect them if the phone gets dropped but PDAs don't. Next time someone has their Visor in bits, maybe they should look at putting some kind of shock absorber in... Maybe it could be combined around the edge of an internally fitted screen protector.... What do you think..??

Registered: Dec 1999
Location: Connecticut USA
Posts: 2682

Fubar,

quote:

---

cell phones have foam around the screens to protect them if the phone gets dropped but PDAs don't. Next time someone has their Visor in bits, maybe they should look at putting some kind of shock absorber in... Maybe it could be combined around the edge of an internally fitted screen protector.... What do you think..??

---

Registered: Nov 1999
Location: Boston, MA, USA
Posts: 90

MarkEagle

They should certainly consider it if they're going to keep shipping that crappy stylus..! I had to polish huge moulding flashes out of my original stylus and the metal replacement.
I have done some work with gasket materials for microscope slides and I was thinking that some of the materials we used there might be suitable... We had thin, compliant material to form a seal with adhesive on the back. If this was cut to a window frame that fitted just around the plastic it could be stuck to a clear vinyl or mylar sheet and then assembled in over the screen. It would be rather tricky to make a home made one that looked neat, but if it worked - who knows... maybe Concept Kitchen or someone would tool up to die cut the two layers... even Handspring like you say....!
This can be my after work project for the next few days...

Registered: Dec 1999
Location: Connecticut USA
Posts: 2682

Fubar,

I'd like to know the outcome of this if you pursue it...

------------------
MarkEagle

Happiness is a Vis r...


[This message has been edited by MarkEagle (edited 01-04-2000).]

Registered: Nov 1999
Location: Boston, MA, USA
Posts: 90

Hmmm...
I just tried it today. I didn't really have the right materials yet, but my WriteRight needed replacing so I thought I'd see what I could do.
I took it apart with the intention of using a cut down overhead transparency film as the screen protector. I was using one for a laser printer and I think it's way too shiny. Almost the same as the glass. I think an injet one may be better because it will have a 'keyed' surface. Anyway, I sucessfully cut the sheet to lock onto the pegs which hold the screen inside the casing. The problem with the shock absorber idea is that there are clips molded into the case at the bottom and if you put too much between the glass and the case, the screen wouldn't clip in. If it's think enough for the screen to still clip in, it probably won't offer much shock protection.....
Back to the drawing board (and back to WriteRights for me!)