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-- Poll: Your Favorite Screen Protector (http://discussion.visorcentral.com/vcforum/showthread.php?threadid=7820)

Xerox window decals (same as the Avery product). Remove the printable coating with some window cleaner, polish with carnuba wax to cut down stylus friction (I like a nice slick screen), then cut to fit. Cost about $0.10 each and take way too much time to make, but nothing else works the way I want

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<ul><li>Dave Kessler<br>President - Kopsis, Inc.</li></ul>

...

so wait, lemme ask a question...

first off, i know that the vinyl things are a lot cheaper...but the cost isnt really too much a problem IF its a quality product.

im thinking about investing in the PDA panache's vdx stlyi and some writerights for the palmIIIc, will these two help me in preventing scratches on my beautiful vdx screen?

im pretty much set on the stlyi, but im really looking for the following in a screen protector:

1. protection against scratches
2. easy readin'
3. easy application (at least semi-easy)

please give me some advise..thx!

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-Liqu|dator-

My VDX is Graphite and is named Krash, what about yours?

nothing.... I don't use any screenprotectors...
I just write carefully... execpt for the grafiti area I don't have any scratches.
I just ordered the Fitaly-stamp so that will be a thing of the past soon...

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<IMG WIDTH="200" HEIGHT="50" SRC=http://www.visorcentral.com/images/visorcentral.gif> VisorCentral Discussion Moderator
Do files get embarrassed when they get unzipped?

vinyl

(1) cheap. for less than $1 you can make tens of protectors.

(2) durable. i still don't see the necessity of replacing the first sheet i placed eight months ago.

(3) clear. almost invisible.

(4) reduce glare.

(5) good feels when writing on it.

it's better than transparencies in every aspects; and is better than WriteRight in (1)(2)(3) and is comparable in (4) and (5).

Tape

Has anyone tried using scotch tape? I heard that if done right it will work great and still come off.

Bobby

WR for Palm IIIc, no textured surface & clear as a bell

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Charo

Re: Tape

quote:

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Originally posted by The_Mac
Has anyone tried using scotch tape? I heard that if done right it will work great and still come off.

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<pre> ^<br> /_\ WINCHELL CHUNG Nyrath the nearly wise at the Praeternatural Tower<br> <(*)> [email protected] http://www.ProjectRho.com/home.html<br>/_/|\_\ ABSIT INVIDIA VERBO IDEM SONANS<br> //|\\ -------------------------------------------------------------------<br>SURREAL SAGE SEZ: I'm nobody. Nobody at all. But the secrets of the<br>universe don't mind. They reveal themselves to nobodies who care.<br></pre>

Re: Re: Tape

quote:

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Originally posted by Winchell

quote:

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Originally posted by The_Mac
Has anyone tried using scotch tape? I heard that if done right it will work great and still come off.

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I've heard that this works best if you use Scotch #811 low tack tape.

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Re: Re: Re: Tape

quote:

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Originally posted by BEN

quote:

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Originally posted by Winchell

quote:

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Originally posted by The_Mac
Has anyone tried using scotch tape? I heard that if done right it will work great and still come off.

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I've heard that this works best if you use Scotch #811 low tack tape.

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Somebody I know who has a plma Vx uses this solution. His screen is still clear because the tape only cover the grafity (sp) area and the tape gives a nice texture. And this is probably just as cheap as home-made screen protectors. He bough a roll last year and it's still going strong.
BEN

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Vinyl's the Best!!

I've tried most of the manufactured screen protectors out there at one point or another, but none of them have held up as well as 4 mil vinyl.

I decided to try vinyl last summer after seeing all of the raves about it. I used 4 mil vinyl from Hancock Fabrics and put my first vinyl protector on over a year ago...it's still on!! The grafitti area is starting to get a bit hazy, so maybe I'll put a new protector on after the new year...

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Sig Runge

I am using Avery 3.3 mil sheet protectors that slip under the visor screen on the left, top, and right side. It extends from the top of the screen to just above the silk-screened area. It is thick enough to eliminate loosening the screws for clamping. The 5 mil sheet would probably be a little tighter.

The bottom edge is held in place with the low-tack tape that also covers the grafitti area. There is no movement, the screen is not dulled, no bubbles, and the grafitti area has enough drag for accurate writing. Plus, I don't have to replace the entire protector when the grafitti section wears out!


Robert

This 4 mil vynil that you are talkin' about... Is it just the stuff found at a hardware store on the big dispenser rolls? If it is, how does it stay on? Just curious if you use an adhesive or if it's static. Or even jammed under the edges of the screen which I'd like to avoid if possible. If it attaches staticly that would be perfect!

I know I've seen this stuff somewhere. I think it was a hardware store anyways. I could be wrong.

Ark.

quote:

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Originally posted by Arker
This 4 mil vynil that you are talkin' about... Is it just the stuff found at a hardware store on the big dispenser rolls? If it is, how does it stay on? Just curious if you use an adhesive or if it's static. Or even jammed under the edges of the screen which I'd like to avoid if possible. If it attaches staticly that would be perfect!

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God bless America, my home sweet home...

quote:

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Originally posted by MarkEagle

quote:

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Originally posted by Arker
This 4 mil vynil that you are talkin' about... Is it just the stuff found at a hardware store on the big dispenser rolls? If it is, how does it stay on? Just curious if you use an adhesive or if it's static. Or even jammed under the edges of the screen which I'd like to avoid if possible. If it attaches staticly that would be perfect!

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Yup... that's the stuff. It's also available from most fabric shops and even places like Wal-Mart.

Static is what holds it in place. Don't ask me to explain it, but it holds quite well... no slipping or sliding around. I've found that the easiest way to remove it is with a piece of tape in a corner to pull it up off the screen. In case you're wondering, the size you need to cut it to is 6.0 cm X 8.0 cm.

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http://www.vsps.com/

After having tried several different methods (document sleeves or sheet protectors, overhead transparencies, and other such slip-under-the-edge types,) I have settled on 4 mil vinyl as being the best by far. A quick spray of Prestone Silicone Lubricant on the back of a very clean piece (to squeegee the bubbles out) and I'm good to go. Besides being completely clear and reducing glare, it doesn't scratch easily and provides a very nice "stylus-feel"

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Eschew obfuscation!

I use Avery transparencies, cut just a little larger than the screen. The transparency slides under the case to hold it in place, and you literally can't tell that it's there. It scratches pretty easily, but it's really cheap and doesn't degrade the screen image at all.

quote:

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Originally posted by Inventorb

quote:

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Originally posted by MarkEagle

quote:

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Originally posted by Arker
This 4 mil vynil that you are talkin' about... Is it just the stuff found at a hardware store on the big dispenser rolls? If it is, how does it stay on? Just curious if you use an adhesive or if it's static. Or even jammed under the edges of the screen which I'd like to avoid if possible. If it attaches staticly that would be perfect!

---

Yup... that's the stuff. It's also available from most fabric shops and even places like Wal-Mart.

Static is what holds it in place. Don't ask me to explain it, but it holds quite well... no slipping or sliding around. I've found that the easiest way to remove it is with a piece of tape in a corner to pull it up off the screen. In case you're wondering, the size you need to cut it to is 6.0 cm X 8.0 cm.

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Vinyl:
Please use caution while using "Vinyl" Some of the vinyl are made with a lot of
junk. This will damage your Electronic Instrument. For instance a High Sulfur content
will damage your instrument over time. The damage will occur by magnetic forces
and cause a black out in a certain area. The response will be from negative and
positive electrons clashing. Read Sir J.J. Thompson theories in the late 1800s they
come into play.

Thank You
Inventor

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http://www.vsps.com/

quote:

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Originally posted by Inventorb
I made a major move yesterday

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Eschew obfuscation!

quote:

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Originally posted by Inventorb

quote:

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Originally posted by Inventorb

quote:

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Originally posted by MarkEagle
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Arker
[B]This 4 mil vynil that you are talkin' about... Is it just the stuff found at a hardware store on the big dispenser rolls? If it is, how does it stay on? Just curious if you use an adhesive or if it's static. Or even jammed under the edges of the screen which I'd like to avoid if possible. If it attaches staticly that would be perfect!

---

Yup... that's the stuff. It's also available from most fabric shops and even places like Wal-Mart.

Static is what holds it in place. Don't ask me to explain it, but it holds quite well... no slipping or sliding around. I've found that the easiest way to remove it is with a piece of tape in a corner to pull it up off the screen. In case you're wondering, the size you need to cut it to is 6.0 cm X 8.0 cm.

---

Vinyl:
Please use caution while using "Vinyl" Some of the vinyl are made with a lot of
junk. This will damage your Electronic Instrument. For instance a High Sulfur content
will damage your instrument over time. The damage will occur by magnetic forces
and cause a black out in a certain area. The response will be from negative and
positive electrons clashing. Read Sir J.J. Thompson theories in the late 1800s they
come into play.

Thank You
Inventor

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<IMG WIDTH="200" HEIGHT="50" SRC=http://www.visorcentral.com/images/visorcentral.gif> VisorCentral Discussion Moderator
Do files get embarrassed when they get unzipped?

Here's an honest, non-flamebait question: Are screen protectors, with or without Warman's provocations, really that interesting to merit so many threads and posts?